![]() ![]() Alternatively, all you really need to do is resist the thrust of a butt end. As far as stabilizing them from moving more, you could sister them with full length joists if you choose, but at that point you might as well remove what's there and size new ones for storage. Especially if you are storing things or crouching up there on them, you should meet the 1 1/2" bearing. If your rafter ties are just in tension, it is not ultimately critical that you are shy of 1 1/2" bearing, but it would be better and code, and it looks like the ones pictured all fall short. Or they gave themself a lot of play in the cut. If they cut it close, then that means the rafter tie may have moved out leaving the open notch. Ok then, so what I saw on that specific joist has a 3rd "top plate" which was cut around it. ![]() Tie into at lease 3 main ceiling joists for good strength.ĭoes that sound reasonable? I think I just need to make sure they never move anymore out, and never fall down into garage, hurting someone, damaging my vehicles and compromising the structure. Then run the sister joists further into the main house ceiling and tie them into the main house ceiling joists (which run perpendicular to the garage joists) with brackets. He suggested building sister joists along side these garage joists. (he used to have a small roofing business on the side). My neighbor gave me an idea I want to run by you. It doesn't seem like the garage wall has moved out, so I imagine the joists were just built and installed "short". I haven't figured out why this material was added on top of the main cap. The cutout that the joist is sitting in by the ladder is cut out of the additional cap material. The one by the ladder is like this.The joist sits on top of the top wall cap, however in several (most) spaces between the joists, there has been additional top cap material added on top of the original top cap.
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